trying to get to rio dulce

12/01/28

Ah yes. Traveling in Guatemala. I had forgotten. I had thought that in taking a shuttle, I would avoid the inconvenience of the local "chicken" buses. Leave San Pedro at 8. Transfer in Antigua to another shuttle to Guate city. A "Pullman" bus at 2 to Rio Dulce. Sounded good.

The shuttle didn´t show up till 8:30. Then we detoured to San Marcos to pick up a big group of foreigners (here to build stoves for a week) We leave San Marcos at 9:30. There are now 2 shuttle buses filled to the brim, It is a very slow climb up the long hill. I can hear the motor straining. I ask the driver - will I make my connection? He assures me that there is a later bus at 2:30 if I miss mine. Great. We get to the top of the hill. We stop at a gas station. Everyone piles out to pee and stretch. Then we pile back in. But then, the driver cuts the motor. We pile back out again. It is the other bus. Something with the brakes. The clutch? The driver tightens one of our wheels. He starts the motor. We drive a little and then circle back. There is still a problem. It is 11 pm. We are nowhere near Antigua. Hmm....

Chapter 2

We actually did get to the juncion at 1 pm. A shuttle was waiting for the 4 of us transferring to Guatemala City. The girl sitting behind me has an international flight leaving at 3. The driver drops her at the airport just before 2 and gets me to the bus station for 2:10 There is no bus scheduled for 2. Nor for 2:30. The last one left at 1.The next one is at 4:30. Darn. I really don´t like travelling these roads at night. The driver buys me a ticket and shakes my hand.

Across the street, the girl is selling different fried meats. I ask her for something without meat. She stares at me. I cross the street. A senora is selling tamales and cakes in her store. All her tamales have meat. I say: all I want is frijoles (beans) She laughs and sends me back across the street. This time, I specifically ask for beans and rice and tortillas. I am given a full plate. I ask for seconds of beans. I am very very hungry. Now back to the station to wait.


Chapter 3

The bus left on time at 4:30. It was 1/2 full, dropping off and picking passengers along the way. Traffic was bad most of the way. And yet, I am peaceful. So many things to be grateful for: I am grateful that they did not put on any movies or music videos. (The TV screet is just in front of me.) I am grateful that I don´t have to pee. I am grateful that I am not in pain after all these hours of sitting, I am grateful that I am hot. I am grateful that i am comfortable. I am grateful that I am safe. I read until the light went and then listened to music on shuffle on my Ipod.

We arrived at 10:30 pm. In the rain. As I came off the bus onto the main street, a man said quietly: "do you need a hotel?" and led me across the street. It rained all night. The mattress was terrible. I had to find a place between the springs. The disco bar blared in the distance. A sheet on the bed. A fan on the ceiling. I am finally in the tropics.