T and D left this morning. I set the alarm for 5.20. It was just barely light when we walked out 10 minutes later but by the time we reached the dock around the other side of the island, a 20 minute walk, the sun was up and bright. A few people were already sitting on the wharf. More arrived soon after with wheelbarrows loaded with bags and suitcases. We had been told to get there by 6. There is only 1 boat in the morning and once it fills, it goes. Nonetheless, the boat only arrived at 6.30, loaded up quickly and was gone in 10 minutes. T and D managed to get seats in the back. They waved to me and off they went. Now after a week of their presence, it will take a little moment to readjust to my quieter rhythm.
It was a great visit. We met in Masaya at the hotel. A knock on my door and there they were. The next morning we took a taxi to the Managua airport. We wandered into the almost empty International Departure area but were redirected to the National flights. There was already a long queue even though the plane was not due to leave for another 2 hours. The line was not moving. Eventually check-in began. Very complicated, it seemed. Many people were carrying overweight bags and the sole clerk was not rushed. People started crowding in behind us and the queue snaked off to the left. D ran around and between the groups of people. An hour later, we were passed through to the waiting area. My full bottle of water was ignored by the check-in crew. We sat down to wait. And wait . And wait.
There seemed to be some problem with loading the luggage. Attendants leaned up against the propeller plane. Which side does which bag go?. An hour and a half after our scheduled departure, we finally left.
When we landed, it was the same sort of thing. It easily took an hour before our bags were fully unloaded. Our passports were inspected. Then there was a mad rush for bags and to the taxis whose drivers were patiently waiting outside. To the dock. Again, the passports. A dock fee. When we finally get to the small boat, it is crammed full. It is also getting later by the minute. Another boat is brought alongside and we cross from the first to the second. Our bags are carried across and packed somewhere. We are the last to board and are in the front row of seats beside some French tourists. Finally we are off. It is after 5. The water is very choppy and the front of the boat starts to slap the waves with great force. D gets frightened and begins to wail. He wails all the way across - "I dont like this!"
It is dark when we arrive. Our bags are the last to emerge and we are the last to leave the dock. The wheelbarrow transport has left. D is very glad to be on dry land and races ahead. I hadnt thought to leave out my flashlight and stop to hunt for it. Luckily at that moment another group arrives with lights and we follow them onto the beach.
I have made reservations at Elsas but as I feared, she has not honoured them and her place is full. I am shown a small bare room with a double bed and told this is all that is available for the night. All 3 of us to sleep here. D is playing in the sand and refuses to move. T is waiting somewhere behind with the bags. A moment of worry but I am too tired to panic. Then a room with 3 beds at a 3rd place is available and we happily move in. We stay the whole week. It is a dark and sandy room and there is no electricity on the island from 5 am to 3 pm. But there is a hammac and chairs on the little porch. A parrot that adopts us. Very friendly staff and guests. The beach in front of our door. We eat at different restaurants, we play in the turquoise water. We turn red and brown. We hunt for crabs. A good week.
Now they have gone. I will stay another week. Then I will take the ferry. The day ferry. No more night ferries for me on the Atlantic with rainstorms and no electricity, thank you very much.
After a good dose of ocean, I will head south to the Rio San Juan on the border of Costa Rica
postscript- One of the hotel owners was on the boat. He reports to me that D did not cry at all on the trip over and that they were able to catch an earlier flight out. Yay!
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