They have been preparing for days. The entrance to the Basilica is surrounded by big cameras. Are they making a movie? After a day of watching more equipment amass, I ask a policeman who is lounging against his car, what is going on. Opera, he says, at 7 tonight. A free performance.
At 7, a new friend and I go down to the Central Park. There are many plastic chairs set up in front of the cathedral. They are all taken. The square behind is filled with people, vendors, small carnival rides. My friend is hungry so we go behind the cathedral to eat from the barbeque vendors.
We wander back to the square. Nothing happening yet. We sit on a park bench to talk and soak up the festive atmosphere. At 8, after a few speeches from local authorities and then the Italian producer, we all stand for the Nicaraguan and very lengthy Italian national anthem. Finally the opera begins. It is the Rustic Cavalier by Puccini. Spanish subtitles are on the big screen hidden behind the scaffolding holding more people with cameras. The orchestra in front of the stage stands to bow then the music begins. The opening piece is a crowd scene with many comings and goings on the stage. I normally love Puccini but am too far back to appreciate the music or follow the story. We stay to hear the beginning of the first solo then wander off to get ice cream.
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