rio san juan

12/03/05

Like the Mekong river in southeast Asia, the Rio San Juan makes a good part of the border between Nicaragua and Costa Rica. In the 18th century,it was slated to be part of the crossing from the Atlantic to the Pacific. But politics gave the canal to Panama. The Americans wanted more control than the Nicaraguans would give them. There is no road access to towns beyond the first short section. Beyond, it is a water culture with boats connecting all the small farms and communities. I take the local collective boat from San Carlos. Last night I suddenly started a sore throat and by morning, my nose is stuffed up. Possibly from the endless fan on my face and body. Then as I woke, a mosquito flew in my ear. Half-asleep, I pushed it further in.. It buzzed for a bit and then stopped. But did not come out. It is either travelling down to my throat or stuck at my eardrum decomposing. Given all the above, I was not in the best of shape heading out this morning.

It is a small boat with an open roof and optional plastic sides for the rain. The boat is full and moves quickly thru the water. It stops along the way. Sometimes there is a wharf. Sometimes a mudbank. I see toucans flying by, a turtle lying on a log, lots of herons, ibis. A boy waits on a bank in high rubber boots. They drop me at Grand River Lodge. A long rickety boardwalk. The boat man helps me onto the boardwalk. I roll my little suitcase, bump bump bump. I see some wooden huts with thatch roofs up on a hill and take a side boardwalk towards them. A young woman comes to meet me and carries my suitcase the rest of the way.