sick in siem reap

30/03/10

When I wake up in the middle of the night in Kratie with a sore throat, I think: oh oh. All those fans blowing on my face, perhaps a bacteria or two got forced in. I arrive in Phnom Penh, my head starting to fill. I had no plans to stay longer than 2 nights. I would see the Tuol Seng prison and the Royal Palace and move on. I manage to find a tailor as well to fix my ripped top.

Phnom Penh is a dirty, polluted city. The buildings opposite my balcony are grimy grey and brown. By evening, I have a fever and little appetite. I watch Rainman with a young Dustin Hoffman and a younger Tom Cruise on HBO, my head in a daze. I go downstairs and buy 2 tangerines and a mango from the reception clerk. And a package of Oreos for trip tomorrow. My throat is getting raw. I have her touch my forehead in case I am mistaken. It is so hot outdoors and the aircon is not strong. Yes, you have a fever, she confirms.

I splurge on the express bus. The aircon works, water and moist paper towel provided. An actual Western toilet at the back of the bus. We arrived in Siem Reap 6 hours later at 2:30 pm. The tuktuk from the hotel was waiting for me, my name printed on the held up sign. I had been here last year and had found the young men running it so kind. It is still a calm, quiet place. There is now free internet downstairs and wifi in the rooms.

At my request, Gamleung has brought me a teapot of hot water to infuse my gnger teabag. He has brought it up on a tray: A white china teapot. A tall cup with a lid to prevent cooling. A little china dish for my used teabag. Very civilized. I drink cup after cup of ginger tea. I contemplate the mango tree in the yard below and the coconut palms in the distance. I feel safe and protected I can heal here. Gamlieung talks about an excursion to visit his family in the country in a few days. He is 31, he tells me. I ask why he and his nephew are not married yet. He says, the wedding is around three or four thousand dollars for a small one. They have responsibilities to educate their family first. I ask him if there is anyone he is interested in. He mentions a young girl who is finshing high school this year. She is 18 and very smart. She is not beautiful but is very kind. She has loved him for 3 years now. I ask if he loves her. He laughs and does not answer.