sengtong

Sengtong sits by the road about 45 minutes out from Meung Noia. In front of him is a cave, behind him the Nam Song river. He sits there all day from 6 in the morning till dark. He charges 10,000 kip (just over a dollar) to tourists to walk further down the road. He is here every day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year. He has been doing this for over 2 years now. He likes the job.

He has a little transistor radio and a book for tourists to sign in. He has a hut across the way for chickens. He says there are about 10. He tells me that business is slow this year. There were more tourists in 2008 and 2009. As well, now there are "bad people" sometimes, the ones who refuse to pay. They have already paid their visa to enter Laos, they say, and don't think they should pay to walk on the road. What can I do, he laughs and shrugs. He lets them pass. There is a sign nearby that states that the money is for the village school.

I ask him if it is alright to ask him what he is paid. He says it is OK and tells me that he is paid 2000 kip for every 10,000 paid. Some days there might be 20 people who pass. Other days (especially in the rainy season) there are none. So his maximum daily salary might be $5.

He used to have a restaurant and a guesthouse in the village and used to do guiding as well. But there was some problem and he had to close his business down. He is content with his current job. He listens to the radio. He looks at the mountain. When I passed on the way back, there was a friend visiting.